Friday, 25 January 2013

The 1873 Corset, second draft

This week, I have slowly been working my way through the second draft of the 1873 corset.  It shouldn't have taken so long, but it has been a case of snatched moments here and there.  After the first redraft, I have also edited pieces as I have sewn the muslin together and then annotated the paper copy with (dated) reminders.

I was even more pleased with my new system when I put the second muslin on Miss G and realised I'd not increased the width of the back piece, which was probably the most important adjustment from muslin number one; dopey does not even begin to describe it!

I have also pinned and marked points on the muslin at which the fit or line is not right as it is sat on Miss G.  I'll need to double check everything on myself before I transfer the markings to the paper pattern though.

The main issues is that the bust area needs looking at a little more.  The first muslin is pinned in reverse on the right hand side of Miss G for reference and it sits far better over the bust than the new muslin does.  The second is quite puckered and doesn't look anywhere near as smooth.  The measurements on those pieces have not changed, so I am wont to blame my sewing; but the bottom front panel, which is a good deal bigger than the original has also distinctly (and unexpectedly) raised the waist line.  I actually rather like it, but I fear that this line will be too short on my body and another reason why the main side panel will need looking at further. 

That said, barring these last few tweaks to the front pieces, I'm pretty happy with how it's progressing.  the changes to the bottom pieces have certainly given me the exaggeration to the hip that I was looking for.  Here's some photos, with the hip padded out to give a better idea of how it will look once boned.

You can see in this last photo the difference in waist lines.  It definitely needs to be revisited though the second muslin looks so much crisper with the shortened waist. 

I am also getting slightly nervous though about how the final piece will go together, the muslin goes together so well because the fabric is so flexible and I won't have that luxury on the final pieces.  Last, but most definitely not least, I now need to decide on some fabrics.  Never mind that I can keep tinkering with the pattern, I can't go any further past that point without some fabric!
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